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Saturday, May 18, 2019

Blocking Body Filler & Epoxy Primer | Roundtail Restoration

Hey, I'm behind again! Not surprising...

Okay, let's see. Of course I didn't take a whole lot of pictures. I know I keep saying I'll get better at that, but here we are. So, I'd defer to the video for a lot of the action stuff. Essentially, I continued my same process of filler work and blocking out the car.

I identified more areas on the wings and the sail plate that needed attention. The worst, of course, was my "twice-done" repair on the driver's side rear wing. Man, what a mess that is. So I mixed up some filler and got it layered on the spots identified.

Some people let the filler get set up to the point where it's almost still a bit tacky and then start blocking it out. I don't like doing it that way so I wait a good 30 minutes before I start blocking. I'm not quite sure the advantage of blocking when it's still a bit wet (which is maybe why I don't do it), but I haven't had any problems doing it once its fully dry.

As far as blocking goes, I continue to start with 40-grit to establish the rough shape, then work on to 80-grit, then 150-grit. Some go to 120-grit from 80-grit, but others do not, so I think it's a matter of personal preference. I have a roll of 150-grit that I don't want to waste...nothing more complicated than that.

I continue to struggle with getting all of one grit's sanding scratches out before moving on. In other words, the small steps between grits helps remove the scratches from the lower (more coarse) grit used before it. In a perfect method, the 150-grit paper removes the 80-grit scratches, which removed the 40-grit scratches. Of course, this relies on the person doing it to find all of the scratches to remove. This is where I'm not so good.

Big ole patch of filler. Blocked out...needs more filler (ugh).

Following that, I moved on to cleaning up the crash bars that support the glove boxes under the dash to get them ready for primer and eventual vinyl covering. I never could figure out any real differences between the metal on these, only that the foam pad is offset to favor a particular side depending on what side of the car its one (passenger's or driver's). I took some measurements for future reference when I make them all pretty again.

You can barely see the outline of where the foam was glued on.
This side offset about an inch from the right end.

This (blurry) one offset about 3 1/2" from the right side.
Bottom two all cleaned up (stripping pad, wire wheel, blast cabinet, etc.), ready for epoxy.

After that, I went with more filler work and blocking. Like I say in the video, blocking is my life!


  1. Chris, Love your comment "perfect is nice, finished is better". I admire your patience. My 69 Mk III paint is "finished". Nancy gave me seat covers for Christmas and am now struggling with the install. The manufacturer says that the high backed reclining seats in the 69 are the most difficult to restore in the Triumph line. I believe them!

    Rob Coulter

    1. Hi Rob. Thanks for your comment (I don't get many on my blog). I'm a bit OCD, so I don't know if patience is the right word...sounds better than OCD, though! I have yet to try and tackle my seat upholstery. I can imagine that the high backs ones are tougher. They recline as well, don't they? I imagine that adds some complication as well. Thanks!