As for the seats, based on recommendations from my favorite forum and my brother, I decided to bite the bullet and buy a 75/25 Ar/CO2 bottle from my local branch of Maine Oxy. The bottle is 60ft3, was full and cost $150. They said it was good for about 3 straight hours of welding so I doubt I will need it refilled any time soon. I also bought a 2 lb. roll of 0.023", ER70S-6 solid wire (as opposed to the flux core that is used without gas). This wire type is supposed to have more oxidizers than others and is therefore good on mild steel, like car bodies, that aren't the cleanest. Unfortunately, they didn't have the new roller for the wire feeder in the welder to go along with the thinner wire, but it is on order and should be here by the middle of the week.
With that, here we go. I'm sure I missed some more minor things...
I figured out that I put the gearbox support plate bolts in upside down. In other words, the bolt was pointing up. Gravity would work against you here, if the nut came loose, and you'd lose the whole thing on the road. So, I turned those over.
While I was there, I also finished matting up the gearbox end of the driveshaft to the gearbox extension with new hardware. Unfortunately, I didn't know that the driveshafts were balanced so I never marked it before I took it off. Guess if my teeth rattle out of my head, I need to revisit.
|Driveshaft bolts and you can see the gearbox frame plate, with its upside-down bolts.|
Refilling the gearbox is a pain because it fills from the side and it's kinda hard to pour oil in a little dinky fill plug that's set parallel to the ground. The oil does come with a pointed cap to use, but it would still be nearly impossible to make it work without getting most of the oil on the floor.
In a flash of brilliance (well, maybe), I ran a piece of clear tubing from the fill hole through the firewall to the engine compartment so I could fill the gearbox from above. It worked great and I would highly recommend this method...if you have an empty hole in your passenger's side firewall, that is. I don't recommend drilling one for this purpose, of course!
|Hose going into the gearbox. That green stuff is the gear oil.|
|Hose routing up into the hole in the firewall. This is either the choke or the heater valve cable hole.|
|Hose on the other side (that black stuff is the PO's fiberglass repair to the battery box. More on that later).|
|New oil pressure sender. Taking bets on whether or not it leaks.|
|New heater toggle switch.|
|New windscreen washer fluid bottle held in place by a freshly painted washer bottle clamp. The bottle came with that famous Tudor sticker...I didn't put in on, yet.|
|The Lucas "Sport" coil. Because the car is sporty.|
|Mild clean up. Lots to go, obviously, to get the box out for eventual replacement...not the goal today.|
|Cable routing. Still have to put those grommets in for the tach and speedo cables.|
|Original slave cylinder; the bad side where the fluid just sat and corroded. Probably just a matter of time.|
|L to R: Diaphragm pump, check valve assy, plunger and housing.|