|Where I'm at, give or take.|
|Where I started. Made some progress, I'd say.|
The crankshaft has been in and out of the motor a few times and I documented crankshaft installation previously here. There really isn't much more to say on the subject except that I did polish the journals of the crankshaft a bit.
The method I used involved using a strip of 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper trapped between the journal and a shoelace. I used WD-40 as a lubricant.
|Like starting a camp fire.|
Then I just pulled the two ends of the shoelace, alternating, so the sandpaper would "spin" around the journal. I did this about 20-30 times, then rotated the crankshaft 90-degrees and repeated the 20-30 times until I got all the way around. Unfortunately, I couldn't get really good before/after shots because of the lighting and the glare from the journal surface, but I tried.
|After the 220-grit pass.|
There is some obvious difference, but it was much better in person. I repeated the same procedure, but using 400-grit, to finish up. Of note, I could not feel any grooves in the journal before I did this. Along with the good measurements that I got, I decided to not get the crankshaft professionally worked. If I found any grooving of the journal surface, or the measurements were bad, I would have taking it to the machine shop along with my other stuff.
I lubricated and installed the main bearings (meticulously clean!!!), set the crankshaft in, place the bearing caps in their correct orientation, and torqued it all down.
|ID mark on the block for bearing cap orientation.|
|ID mark on bearing cape. The first punch didn't work out as well, I guess.|
The main bearing caps get torqued to 55-60 ft-lbs. My method of torquing this (and all other items), which is the guidance provided by Naval Ships Technical Manual 075, Fasteners, is to bring all of the bolts to about 10% of the specification to ensure proper mating of the surfaces. Then, in 25% increments, bring all of the bolts to the torque specification. For these bolts and other areas where even application is important to prevent warping (like the head), I am concerned with relaxation. To combat this, I paused at about 75% torque and waited about an hour to allow the torsional stresses to relieve, then brought all of the bolts up to the final 55-60 ft-lbs.
|Thrust washers that came out. I know I took pics of the new ones, but darn if I can find them! They're the same, but much prettier.|
|The thrust washers fit in those grooves between the bearing housing of the block and the crankshaft.|
Another quirk is that there are two small pieces of wood at either end that act as a gasket between the sealing block and the motor. The sealing block is installed such that is is flush with the front of the motor and tightened down.
|Checking the proper fit of the sealing block. The clear liquid is Gasgacinch.|
The wood, which is cut slightly oversized, is placed in the groove between the block and the motor and then hammered down to provide a tight seal. The tops are then trimmed flush with the bottom of the motor.
|Wood installed and hammered a bit. You can see the ends being shaved to fit. Custom!|
|Cutting the block flush. Not very elegant, but effective.|
|The finished product. Note the two small paper gaskets between the screw holes and the block.|
Once that was done, it was on to fitting the rear oil seal. Being an earlier motor, this is a scroll type seal. Before the advent of modern polymers that could maintain a seal around a rotating shaft, scroll type seals were used. In essence, a spiral, similar to threads of a screw, are cut into both the crankshaft end and the oil seal assembly.
|The scroll cut into the rear of the crankshaft.|
The scrolls are cut such that, with the rotation of the crankshaft, the oil that tries to flow out will be drawn back into the crankcase, almost like threading a nut onto a bolt. Oil leaks are not unusual with this type of seal, as far as I can tell, but they are effective enough.
The oil seal assembly is put on the back of the crankcase and snugged down with the seven bolts. Then, a feeler gauge is run around the circumference of the crankshaft. The clearance should be about 0.002" between the crankshaft and the oil seal assembly. I used a mallet to lightly knock the oil seal into place as necessary. While not perfect, I got very close to 0.002" all around.
|Oil seal installed.|