Rimmer Bros is a large parts house in the UK. They have some parts that you can't get over here and their prices are generally cheaper, but the shipping gets you. Take for example the sills (or rockers for us Americans) that are commonly rusted out. To purchase them from state-side parts suppliers costs about $120. This same part (the Steelcraft part distributed by British Motor Heritage) is only ~$105 from Rimmer Bros. If you put the shipping on that, however, it's essentially a wash. But, Rimmer's is now having a 15%-off sale for all Triumph parts. With 15% off, the sill is now ~$90 and, magically, shipping kind of becomes free.
Adding up the worst case of what I will need, I'm looking at ~$710 in new sheet metal (again, this is with the sale). This gets me both floor pans, both cross members, both outer sills, the driver's side inner sill and strengthener and the passenger's lower A-post (Dot's is essentially MIA). To price this out from domestic suppliers, I'm looking at almost double that...~$1300. Very tempting.
Okay, enough of that. I did get some more work on the battery box done today and I also cut apart a bit of the black car to try to salvage some sheet metal. This time, it was the two front mounting brackets that go under the forward, outer edges of the floor pans. They are pretty thick (maybe 10 ga) steel brackets that provide a solid mounting point for the front edges of the tub, through the floor pan, to outriggers on the frame.
|A bit fuzzy, but I'm talking about part 3, right above this text.|
|A bit hard to tell everything apart here, but the brackets are the thicker pieces of metal with the bolt hole in them.|
|The corner, cut out obviously, where the brackets were. That's the high-beam switch in the driver's foot well.|
After I got that all wrapped up, I moved on to battery box work (finally!). You may remember way back in my first post of this endeavor that I had cut the spot welds, unintentionally, of some of the top bulkhead while removing the old battery box. I had intended to just plug weld it back in but made a new piece (out of the old boot lid) instead since the original had quite large holes in it relative to its width.
|Pretty exciting, huh? This was easy to make and I drilled 3/16" holes about a inch apart for the plug welds.|
I used the zinc weld-through primer for the underside of the piece and got is set in place.
|Piece set in place, ready to plug weld.|
|Magnets from below.|
|Welded in. Ground down about half of it in this picture. You may also notice the tack welds on the other part in the background.|
|A round of tack welds after they've been ground down. You can see several holes and missed spots.|
|Another round of tack welds, before any grinding.|
I did some additional grinding to get the battery box to sit as flush as I could, including some grinding on the battery box itself (the outside edge needed some trimming). While I doesn't sit flush by any means, it does sit in there. I'll go back with a hammer and dolly and get the opening as flat as I can and then work on the battery box to get that formed to fit. Hopefully, when I'm all done, there will not be any gaps and I'll have a good solid fit to weld.
|Well, mostly. Need some metal bending here.|
|And here. The box comes flat so you have to flare the back side of it no matter what.|