With the epoxy primer well beyond its 7-day overcoat time, I needed to scuff it up before applying the seam sealer. So, between 180-grit sandpaper and my trusty maroon Scotchbrite pads, I scuffed up everywhere that I wanted to get sealed.
My focus areas were, of course, the panel seams but I also wanted to get each weld repair that I did as well. The whole thing will be covered in UPol Raptor Liner (tinted red), so I didn't think I needed to go crazy with the stuff, but I did want it covered.
I used two separate products for seam sealing. For the panel seams, especially where there were some sizable gaps, I wanted to ensure I got the sealer in there good and this would require a bit of pressure. The best way I figured how to do this was to use seam sealer in a caulking tube, so that's what I did. I used AC Delco Body Joint and Seam Sealer Compound and it worked fine. As I mentioned in the video, I also invested in a relatively good caulk gun. It wasn't cheap, but the difference was night and day between it and the cheap ones that I have used in the past. And the next time I do the bathroom or some other random caulking event, I'll have it to use!
|AC Delco stuff in the fender arch.|
|And in the floor to rear crossmember gap. You can see some light areas where I scuff to the right and parallel to the caulked seam.|
The directions say its paintable in 60 minutes, so I gave it an hour to cure as I wanted to put another coat over the first. After waiting, I went over all of those areas with Evercoat Brushable Seam Sealer as well as all of the weld repairs and any other seams that I have previously scrapped old seam sealer from. This stuff went on pretty well, though it is definitely "goopy". A good smell to it, too, especially using as much as I did so I recommend organic vapor cartridges for your mask, which worked great.
|Brushable seam sealer on the new to old floor pan seam.|
|Brushable over the AC Delco stuff in the wheel arch (in the shadow).|
|Boot floor to wheel arch seam, partially repaired but all seam sealed.|
That was really it for that stuff; not too difficult. Like I said, I am putting Raptor Liner under there so that will also provide protection. I'll give it a few days and look over it all again to see if I get any shrinkage and then reapply if I feel its necessary before the Raptor Liner.
After that, I decided to take out the passenger's door and see what body work I would have to do on it. I was not disappointed, but I will admit that I was surprised with how good of shape the door was in. No significant rust, but there were a few dings.
I took my pneumatic DA sander with an 80-grit disk and started working on removing paint. I didn't get too aggressive with paint removal because I wanted to use the existing paint as a guide for my damage assessment rather than taking the door down to bare metal. If I sanded down to a bare metal spot surrounded by paint, I knew this was a high spot. If a darker red topcoat (applied by the PO) spot was surrounded by the original red, I knew that was a low spot.
|Starting the DA sander process. The bare metal is indicative of high spots.|
|Another shot. The dark red paint surrounded by the original, lighter red is indicative of low spots since this is the top coat. A good ding is evident on the horizontal door crease towards the right.|
|Majority of DA sanding done without going to bare metal all around. You can clearly see the highs and lows in the door. Like the surface of the moon!|
The area around the door handle was pretty banged up, though I think it was due to decades of use of the door handle itself rather than damage. Of course, I found some body filler, but surprisingly, only one spot.
|The body filler spot bounded, prior to removing it all.|
|Filler removed, showing the holes used to pull the dent out. I filled these in later.|
The repair seems to me to be pretty decent. I will revisit it because the crease in the door kind of loses its sharpness in there, but all in all it wasn't the gob of filler over a nasty dent that I thought I would find.
|Filled. I didn't get aggressive with grinding them smoot because I didn't want to mess the crease line up by removing too much metal.|
The rest of the day was spent looking at the rest of the damage and figuring out what I need to pay attention to in the future. I did fill in the holes that I found from dent removal and two holes from a previous door mirror installation, but that was about it. Time to go back on vacation!